Thursday, September 21, 2017

Battle of Moisturiser: Hada Labo, Ginvera, Cerave, Cosmoderm, Imju Naturie

Assalamualaikum and hi,

'Not everyone need a moisturiser but everyone need nutrient' that's what Paula Begoun says. I have to agree with her phrase. I realize I don't need to go heavy on moisturiser because I am living in high humidity area but I do need humectant and antioxidant. So, I used a few moisturisers to provide nutrients for my skin, even though I know my skin is not going to eat all up. Hey, not all nutrients can penetrate deeper inside the skin. At least I try.

Moisturiser I currently/have use:

Imju Naturie Hatomugi Conditioning Gel, Hada Labo ACE Cream, Ginvera Marvel White Facial Lotion, Hada Labo Hydrating Milk, Cerave Moisturising Cream, Cosmoderm Vitamin 1000 IU Cream

Hada Labo Hydrating A.C.E Cream

Hada Labo ACE Cream ingredient list

HL ACE cream basically a moisturising cream with vitamin A (Retinyl Palmitate), C (Ascorbyl Palmitate) dan E (Tocopheryl Acetate) as antioxidant. I bought this because of the antioxidants. This cream has yellow tiny beads which contain vitamin A, C and E. It also contain squalane which is good for moisture barrier. The texture is quite light but I don't think oily skin can handle this cream.

My verdict: Firstly, I used this cream both day and night for about 3 months. My skin become oilier until I swiped with micellar water for wudhu' or reapplying sunscreen. After that, I just used this at night as a normal moisturiser. My face became brighter after I woke up. But for temporary. The cons is that there a bit little sting in a couple of minutes after I applied. This cream didn't break me out or give me rashes. It can make my face looks oily when applied during the day. Now, I rarely used this because I found another better moisturiser to use daily.

Pros:
- Give immediate brightening effect in one night.
- Didn't break me out
- Has potent antioxidant

Cons:
- Too oily to use during the day
- Sting during the first use

Rating: 3.5/5

Hada Labo Hydrating Lotion Milk

Hada Labo Hydrating Lotion Milk

HL hydrating milk contain a lots of humectant and emollient such as 3 types of hyaluronic acid, glycerin, caprylic triglyceride, dimethicone etc. Trial version of this product is fairly enough to use for oily or combination skin.

My verdict: I love using this during the day. This is emulsion or traditional lotion type of moisturiser. This HL milk can retain moisture and hydration throughtout the day. I tried to use it at night but it seems not working. I tried to layer with HL ACE cream, but I got whitehead on the next day. Maybe I can't use the two same function product at a time. Well, to be noted this milk do not have any antioxidants, so it's a bit boring. Anyway, this is decent light moisturiser to use in morning routine or before reapplying sunscreen (for the trial size).

Pros:
- Give enough moisture
- Retain moisture during the day
- Have decent amount of product in trial packaging

Cons:
- Don't have antioxidants

Rating: 3/5

Ginvera Marvel White Facial Lotion

Ginvera Marvel White Facial Lotion ingredient list

The highlighted ingredients are green tea as an antioxidant, graden cress and soybean extract as whitening and moisturising agent and shiso extract as anti-flammaotry, soothing ingredient. Also notable ingredients like titanium dioxide (UV filter), aloe vera and licorice extract are found in this product. The texture is just like a normal traditional lotion or emulsion. Some oily skin people like this product but some of them also hate this. It has light green tea smell. I am person who really hate strong smell but this is nice.

My verdict: I want to use this because HL milk does not contain antioxidants. Ginvera lotion is not hydrating enough like HL milk but still good to use during daytime. If I mess up during the cleansing or toning step, this lotion will turn my face to oil slick. For me, it is not doing that much but still okay of you need cheaper alternative for day moisturiser.

Pros:
- Nice pump packaging
- Lots of beneficial ingredients
- Moisturises good enough
- Affordable

Cons:
- Not doing that much
- Can be too oily if using too much or wrong skin prep

Rating: 3/5

Cerave Moisturising Cream

Cerave Moisturising Cream ingredient list

Cerave using MVE delivery technology which means the product release active ingredients to penetrate deep into the skin from time to time, so, our skin can avoid dryness. Well...it's too good to be true. However, they have good highlighted ingredient like ceramides and hyaluronic acid that are beneficial for skin's moisture barrier. Cerave cream has normal texture cream just like another moisturising cream in the market. Don't have any scent.

My verdict: This cream is lighter than cetaphil cream I used before (and I hate it). I used this if I am doing exfoliating step or during cold and dry weather or my skin is really dry. I'm glad I did not experienced any stinging or uncomfortable feeling during use. But, my face get oilier in high humidity area after I applied this cream. Final word, this is affordable cream that works really well in whatever drying condition.

Pros:
- Good for moisture barrier
- Not heavy
- Affordable

Cons:
- Hard to get in my country
- Not for high humidity condition

Rating: 4/5

Cosmoderm Vitamin E 1000 IU Cream

Cosmoderm Vitamin E 1000 IU Cream ingredient list
Cosmoderm vitamin e cream is a famous product from Cosmoderm. They have two types of vitamin e cream: 1000 iu for normal to oily skin and 3000 iu for dry skin. They also have vitamin e oil product that contain 10000 or 30000 iu I think. Some people rave about this cream for effectiveness in lightening scar. Vitamin e is an antioxidant that also contributing to lightening the scar. The scent is quite strong but not annoying.

My Verdict: Cosmoderm vitamin E cream is not effective on me but the opposite, it gave me whiteheads. I tried to stop and restart all over and still, it is not working. Maybe the oil content is quite high for my skin to tolerate since my skin is not a good friend with olive oil. People ask me to use is for a longer period to see significant effect. But...I can't accept this cream, it is uncomfortable for my liking.

Pros
- Affordable
- Contain Vitamin E

Cons:
- Give me whiteheads
- Feeling uncomfortable

Rating: 1/5

Imju Naturie Hatomugi Conditioning Gel

Imju Naturie Hatomugi Skin Conditioning Gel claims and ingredient list

This is the newest moisturiser I have. Naturie hatomugi gel contain vitamin c form (ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate), a form of vitamin e (sodium tocoperyl phosphate) and Job's tears as moisturising agent. I bought this gel because of the highlighted ingredients. The form of vitamin c and e in this product are fairly new in cosmetic industry. Don't have any scent. The texture it's like almost non-transparent gel.

The price is mindblown for a big tub. This gel is only RM39 (~$9.3) for a normal price, I get discount price for RM35.90 (~$8.6). I've heard that this product have promotion about RM27 (~$6.4). But big tub not always good. 

My verdict: I used this about more than a month and I really love this hatomugi gel. This has been my staple moisturiser currently. That's why I ignoring another moisturisers because this gel is working really well with my skin. I can say it gave you 'wet&bright' effect. Also good for reducing my redness. Currently I have combination skin, this gel balancing oil-water content in my skin really well. This might heavy for oily skin and too light for dry skin. Oily skin may want to use a decent amount, and dry skin might want to layer another moisturising product. I want to give full rating for this but I just use this about a month and come in a big tub. I always have to transfer a good amount to a small jar.

Pros:
- Cheap
- Effective
- Lightweight
- Reducing redness

Cons:
-Big tub

Rating: 4/5

All the moisturisers are tested on my combination (dry in u-zone, normal to oily on t-zone and nose area), dehydrated skin. What is effective for me may not effective for you and vice versa.

Wassalam.

Thursday, June 15, 2017

Quick and Short about Moisturiser

Assalamualaikum and hi,
What is the properties of a moisturiser and how does moisturiser form? Maybe you can get a little idea to get a suitable moisturiser for your skin. Even me still trying and testing a few moisturisers.

Properties of Moisturiser
  1. Humectant  - works by attracting humidity from surrounding. Effective with lower percentage. Berkesan pada lower percentage. Example: glycerin, butleyne glycol, hyaluronic acid, lactic acid, urea, sodium hyaluronate, honey etc
  2. Emollient - smooths and soften the skin surface. Filling the spaces in the surface skin and binding the skin cells back. Example: fatty acids, ceramides, squalene, jojoba oil, any light oils
  3. Occlusive - trap all the moisture (humectant and emollient). This is what makes your skin look greasy. Example: Mineral oil, petrolatum, beeswax, lanolin, olive oil, shea butter.
Source

Choosing a suitable moisturiser
  • Dry skin - Use moisturiser that rich with emollients and occlusive to keep your skin well-hydrated and moisturised. 
  • Oily skin - Good humectant and emollient helps control the oil production. Too much occlusive makes oily skin suffocated.
  • Follow skintype is not enough. Surrounding, weather and humidity also play important role. Me as people who live in a tropical country, need humectant and some emollient based moisturiser. If you stay in the air conditioner room for a long time, you need an occlusive. AC will dry your skin out.
  • Or you just apply any type of moisturiser according to what your skin behave that day.
  • For acne prone skin, you can choose moisturiser full with ceramides, oil-free, non comodegenic, no mineral oil. You can read here for further info. 

How to layering?
After washing, first apply humectant (hydrating toner, essence, serum) onto the skin, then the emollient rich product (serum, ampoule, emulsion, milk), finally you can apply occlusive based moisturiser to seal all the moisture. You have to consider from thinner to thickest. More thicker moisturiser you have, more occlusive they have. You need to avoid apply occlusives directly onto the skin, it will make your skin more dehydrated. Labmuffin has explained so well here.


I will share review on moisturiser I am currently using.
That's all. Bye, wassalam.

Saturday, June 10, 2017

Battle of Sunscreens: Skin&Lab vs Kiss Me Sunkiller vs A'pieu

Assalamualaikum and Hi!

If you want to know my previous sunscreen history, you can read here. Moreover, it's really difficult to find sunscreen that suit your skin. Especially when majority of sunscreens formula always reformulate and discontinue. I tried and tested for all these 3 sunscreens about almost a year.


Move on to the reviews:

Skin&Lab Fre-C Sun Protector SPF50+ PA+++
Price: RM50 ~ $11
Weight: 50g


Ingredients: water, cyclopentasiloxane, ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate, glycerin, ethylhexyl salicylate, zinc oxide, peg-10 dimethicone, titanium dioxide, dimethicone, niacinamide, dipropylene glycol, tocopheryl acetate, ascorbic acid, astrocaryum murumuru seed butter, magnesium sulfate, disteardimonium hectorite, c30-45 alkyl cetearyl dimethicone crosspolymer, vinyl dimethicone/ methicone silsesquioxane crosspolymer, cetyl peg/ ppg 10/ 1 dimethicone, isoamyl p-methoxycinnamate, aluminium hydroxide, stearic acid, glyceryl caprylate, caprylyl glycol, talc, phenoxyethanol, fragrance, iron oxides.

UV filters used:
1. Octinoxate - UVB and certain UVA
2. Octisalate - UVB
3. Zinc Oxide - UVB and UVA
4. Titanium Dioxide - UVB and certain UVA
5. Amiloxate - Just stated it's only light absorber, no further information.

As you can see from the ingredients, there are a lots of beneficial ingredients such as niacinimide, vitamin e and vitamin c.



The product comes out as almost yellow-orange color and thick texture. When blending out with my skin, it leaves a little whitecast.
My verdict: I like this sunscreen the most between the 3 because it has zinc oxide. I can't ask for more for this sunscreen, it has all the properties I need. Antioxidants, physical blocker and light whitecast. My face easily red, a little whitecast really helpful in cancelling them out. A bit greasy if I stay under the sun for too long. Just have a mild citrus scent. Final word, this sunscreen is really effective.

Kiss Me Sunkiller Perfect Water Essence SPF50+ PA++++

Price: RM30 ~ $7
Size: 50g

Ingredients: water, ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate, diethylamino hydrobenzyl benzoate, pentylene glycol, sodium acetylated hyaluronate, sodium hyaluronate, hydrolyzed hyaluronic acid, saxifraga sermentosa extract, aloe barbadensis leaf extract, royal jelly extract, isononyl isononoate, bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine, sodium acrylate / sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer, titanium dioxide, isohexadecane, aluminum starch octenylsuccinate, ethylhexylglycerin, polysorbate 80, sodium dilauramidoglutamide lysine, aluminum hydroxide, stearic acid, xantha gum, sorbitan oleate, phenoxyethanol, fragrance, ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate / VP copolymer, tocopherol, BHT, t-butyl alcohol.

UV filters used:
1. Octinoxate - UVB and certain UVA
2. Uvinul A plus - certain UVA
3. Tinosrb S - UVB and UVA
4. Titanium Dioxide - UVB and certain UVA

According to the ingredients, this sunscreen has a lots of moisturising ingredients: 3 types of hyaluronic acid and royal jelly; and antioxidant which is strawberry begonia extract. This chemical sunscreen might not going well for oily and sensitive skin.



The product is really lightweight and the texture is almost gel-like. It has not whitecast but it will brighten up your skin temporarily. Plus, it makes your skin looks glowing and moisturising. I think most people with normal skin can skip moisturiser while using this.

My verdict: This sunscreen broke me out at first. It really makes my face looking like an oil slick if I did not wait until it dry before going out or I really stay under the sun for too long. However, it is good if I stay in air-conditioning room or during cold climate. This sunscreen won't drying out my skin. Somehow, I managed to used this sunscreen outside with condition I must put powder on top. Has natural citrus scent.

A'pieu Natural Sun Cream SPF45 PA+++
Price: RM25~ $5.9
Size: 50ml


Ingredients: Water, Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate, Ethylhexyl Salicylate, Butylene Glycol, Phenylbenzimidazole Sulfonic Acid, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane, Bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine, Methyl Methacrylate Crosspolymer, Glyceryl Stearate, Cirtus Aurantifolia, Cetearyl Olivate, Adansonia Digitata Seed Extract, Prunus Persica Flower Extract, Cetearyl Alcohol, Nylon-12, Sorbitan Olivate, Sodium Hydroxide, Pyrus Malus, Dimethicone, Polyacrylate-13, Panthenol, Polyisobutene, PEG-100 Stearate, Tocopheryl Acetate, Punica Granatum Flower Extract, Sorbitan Stearate, Oryza Sativa, Malpighia Emarginata, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Extract, Eucalyptus Globulus Leaf Extract, Rosa Centifolia Flower Water, Prunus Avium, Citurs Aurantium Dulcis, Citrullus Lanatus Fruit Extract, Sorbitan Isostearate, Polysorbate 20, BHT, Disodium EDTA, 1,2-Hexanediol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Caprylyl Glycol, Flavor/Fragrance.

UV filters:
1. Octinoxate: UVB and certain UVA
2. Octisalate: UVB
3. Ensulizale: UVB
4. Avobenzone: certain UVB and UVA
5. Tinosorb S: UVA and UVB

This full chemical sunscreen has good formulation though. It has a few antioxidants: Lime extract, apple extract; moisturising agent: peach. People getting confused over avobenzone and oxybenzone. The problematic ingredient is oxybenzone.

The consistency is really light. It has white color. It will leave your skin semi matte finish. 


My verdict: The feeling is the same as Sunkiller Perfect Water Essence except this sunscreen did not break me out. It become greasy when stay under the sun for too long or did not wait for 20-30 minutes before going out. Put the powder on top can save all the problems. At least, it less greasier than Sunkiller Perfect Water Essence. The scent is the same as Neutrogena Dry Touch Sunblock I used before. Both has avobenzone. I don't know if the smell due to avobenzone? The smell is citrusy-like and a bit strong.

Results: Skin&Lab Fre-C Sun Protector > A'pieu Natural Sun Cream Daily => Sunkiller Perfect Water Essence

The similarity between all these 3 sunscreens are the size. Of course, I choose Skin&Lab Sun Protector because it contains zinc oxide and thicker texture which I don't need to use much and last longer. I don't follow the rule 1/4teaspoon or 2mg/cm2 as long I apply powder on top and reapply during lunch hour. It makes my skin suffocated whenever I follow the rule. It has high spf and high UVA rating, so no worries.

Okay, that's it. See you next post.
Bye, wassalam.

UPDATED 14/7/2017 : Something happen! Skin&Lab Sun Protection suddenly did not work out for me. It sting, greasy, i just can't put it on my face. Leave my face red after I remove with micellar water. I want to cry because I love how this sunscreen contain zinc oxide+antioxidants. However, Sunkiller Perfect water essence is working really great, I have no problem with layering two times. Of course I have to put powder on top.