Thursday, June 15, 2017

Quick and Short about Moisturiser

Assalamualaikum and hi,
What is the properties of a moisturiser and how does moisturiser form? Maybe you can get a little idea to get a suitable moisturiser for your skin. Even me still trying and testing a few moisturisers.

Properties of Moisturiser
  1. Humectant  - works by attracting humidity from surrounding. Effective with lower percentage. Berkesan pada lower percentage. Example: glycerin, butleyne glycol, hyaluronic acid, lactic acid, urea, sodium hyaluronate, honey etc
  2. Emollient - smooths and soften the skin surface. Filling the spaces in the surface skin and binding the skin cells back. Example: fatty acids, ceramides, squalene, jojoba oil, any light oils
  3. Occlusive - trap all the moisture (humectant and emollient). This is what makes your skin look greasy. Example: Mineral oil, petrolatum, beeswax, lanolin, olive oil, shea butter.

Choosing a suitable moisturiser
  • Dry skin - Use moisturiser that rich with emollients and occlusive to keep your skin well-hydrated and moisturised. 
  • Oily skin - Good humectant and emollient helps control the oil production. Too much occlusive makes oily skin suffocated.
  • Follow skintype is not enough. Surrounding, weather and humidity also play important role. Me as people who live in a tropical country, need humectant and some emollient based moisturiser. If you stay in the air conditioner room for a long time, you need an occlusive. AC will dry your skin out.
  • Or you just apply any type of moisturiser according to what your skin behave that day.
  • For acne prone skin, you can choose moisturiser full with ceramides, oil-free, non comodegenic, no mineral oil. You can read here for further info. 

How to layering?
After washing, first apply humectant (hydrating toner, essence, serum) onto the skin, then the emollient rich product (serum, ampoule, emulsion, milk), finally you can apply occlusive based moisturiser to seal all the moisture. You have to consider from thinner to thickest. More thicker moisturiser you have, more occlusive they have. You need to avoid apply occlusives directly onto the skin, it will make your skin more dehydrated. Labmuffin has explained so well here.

I will share review on moisturiser I am currently using.
That's all. Bye, wassalam.

Saturday, June 10, 2017

Battle of Sunscreens: Skin&Lab vs Kiss Me Sunkiller vs A'pieu

Assalamualaikum and Hi!

If you want to know my previous sunscreen history, you can read here. Moreover, it's really difficult to find sunscreen that suit your skin. Especially when majority of sunscreens formula always reformulate and discontinue. I tried and tested for all these 3 sunscreens about almost a year.

Move on to the reviews:

Skin&Lab Fre-C Sun Protector SPF50+ PA+++
Price: RM50 ~ $11
Weight: 50g

Ingredients: water, cyclopentasiloxane, ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate, glycerin, ethylhexyl salicylate, zinc oxide, peg-10 dimethicone, titanium dioxide, dimethicone, niacinamide, dipropylene glycol, tocopheryl acetate, ascorbic acid, astrocaryum murumuru seed butter, magnesium sulfate, disteardimonium hectorite, c30-45 alkyl cetearyl dimethicone crosspolymer, vinyl dimethicone/ methicone silsesquioxane crosspolymer, cetyl peg/ ppg 10/ 1 dimethicone, isoamyl p-methoxycinnamate, aluminium hydroxide, stearic acid, glyceryl caprylate, caprylyl glycol, talc, phenoxyethanol, fragrance, iron oxides.

UV filters used:
1. Octinoxate - UVB and certain UVA
2. Octisalate - UVB
3. Zinc Oxide - UVB and UVA
4. Titanium Dioxide - UVB and certain UVA
5. Amiloxate - Just stated it's only light absorber, no further information.

As you can see from the ingredients, there are a lots of beneficial ingredients such as niacinimide, vitamin e and vitamin c.

The product comes out as almost yellow-orange color and thick texture. When blending out with my skin, it leaves a little whitecast.
My verdict: I like this sunscreen the most between the 3 because it has zinc oxide. I can't ask for more for this sunscreen, it has all the properties I need. Antioxidants, physical blocker and light whitecast. My face easily red, a little whitecast really helpful in cancelling them out. A bit greasy if I stay under the sun for too long. Just have a mild citrus scent. Final word, this sunscreen is really effective.

Kiss Me Sunkiller Perfect Water Essence SPF50+ PA++++

Price: RM30 ~ $7
Size: 50g

Ingredients: water, ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate, diethylamino hydrobenzyl benzoate, pentylene glycol, sodium acetylated hyaluronate, sodium hyaluronate, hydrolyzed hyaluronic acid, saxifraga sermentosa extract, aloe barbadensis leaf extract, royal jelly extract, isononyl isononoate, bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine, sodium acrylate / sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer, titanium dioxide, isohexadecane, aluminum starch octenylsuccinate, ethylhexylglycerin, polysorbate 80, sodium dilauramidoglutamide lysine, aluminum hydroxide, stearic acid, xantha gum, sorbitan oleate, phenoxyethanol, fragrance, ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate / VP copolymer, tocopherol, BHT, t-butyl alcohol.

UV filters used:
1. Octinoxate - UVB and certain UVA
2. Uvinul A plus - certain UVA
3. Tinosrb S - UVB and UVA
4. Titanium Dioxide - UVB and certain UVA

According to the ingredients, this sunscreen has a lots of moisturising ingredients: 3 types of hyaluronic acid and royal jelly; and antioxidant which is strawberry begonia extract. This chemical sunscreen might not going well for oily and sensitive skin.

The product is really lightweight and the texture is almost gel-like. It has not whitecast but it will brighten up your skin temporarily. Plus, it makes your skin looks glowing and moisturising. I think most people with normal skin can skip moisturiser while using this.

My verdict: This sunscreen broke me out at first. It really makes my face looking like an oil slick if I did not wait until it dry before going out or I really stay under the sun for too long. However, it is good if I stay in air-conditioning room or during cold climate. This sunscreen won't drying out my skin. Somehow, I managed to used this sunscreen outside with condition I must put powder on top. Has natural citrus scent.

A'pieu Natural Sun Cream SPF45 PA+++
Price: RM25~ $5.9
Size: 50ml

Ingredients: Water, Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate, Ethylhexyl Salicylate, Butylene Glycol, Phenylbenzimidazole Sulfonic Acid, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane, Bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine, Methyl Methacrylate Crosspolymer, Glyceryl Stearate, Cirtus Aurantifolia, Cetearyl Olivate, Adansonia Digitata Seed Extract, Prunus Persica Flower Extract, Cetearyl Alcohol, Nylon-12, Sorbitan Olivate, Sodium Hydroxide, Pyrus Malus, Dimethicone, Polyacrylate-13, Panthenol, Polyisobutene, PEG-100 Stearate, Tocopheryl Acetate, Punica Granatum Flower Extract, Sorbitan Stearate, Oryza Sativa, Malpighia Emarginata, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Extract, Eucalyptus Globulus Leaf Extract, Rosa Centifolia Flower Water, Prunus Avium, Citurs Aurantium Dulcis, Citrullus Lanatus Fruit Extract, Sorbitan Isostearate, Polysorbate 20, BHT, Disodium EDTA, 1,2-Hexanediol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Caprylyl Glycol, Flavor/Fragrance.

UV filters:
1. Octinoxate: UVB and certain UVA
2. Octisalate: UVB
3. Ensulizale: UVB
4. Avobenzone: certain UVB and UVA
5. Tinosorb S: UVA and UVB

This full chemical sunscreen has good formulation though. It has a few antioxidants: Lime extract, apple extract; moisturising agent: peach. People getting confused over avobenzone and oxybenzone. The problematic ingredient is oxybenzone.

The consistency is really light. It has white color. It will leave your skin semi matte finish. 

My verdict: The feeling is the same as Sunkiller Perfect Water Essence except this sunscreen did not break me out. It become greasy when stay under the sun for too long or did not wait for 20-30 minutes before going out. Put the powder on top can save all the problems. At least, it less greasier than Sunkiller Perfect Water Essence. The scent is the same as Neutrogena Dry Touch Sunblock I used before. Both has avobenzone. I don't know if the smell due to avobenzone? The smell is citrusy-like and a bit strong.

Results: Skin&Lab Fre-C Sun Protector > A'pieu Natural Sun Cream Daily => Sunkiller Perfect Water Essence

The similarity between all these 3 sunscreens are the size. Of course, I choose Skin&Lab Sun Protector because it contains zinc oxide and thicker texture which I don't need to use much and last longer. I don't follow the rule 1/4teaspoon or 2mg/cm2 as long I apply powder on top and reapply during lunch hour. It makes my skin suffocated whenever I follow the rule. It has high spf and high UVA rating, so no worries.

Okay, that's it. See you next post.
Bye, wassalam.

UPDATED 14/7/2017 : Something happen! Skin&Lab Sun Protection suddenly did not work out for me. It sting, greasy, i just can't put it on my face. Leave my face red after I remove with micellar water. I want to cry because I love how this sunscreen contain zinc oxide+antioxidants. However, Sunkiller Perfect water essence is working really great, I have no problem with layering two times. Of course I have to put powder on top.

Tuesday, May 23, 2017

Battle of Hada Labo Face Wash: Gokujyun vs Shirojyun vs Tamagohada AHA+BHA

Assalamuaikum and hi!

I am back again from a long hiatus. This is the second post for 2017 but it almost mid-year. In this entry, I want to put my face washes on battle. They all from Hada Labo (HL) again. I know it's boring, but it works for me.

When it come to face wash, I don't expect anything except washing my face from any dirt and excessive oils without feeling tight and dry. Face wash is not going to heal your acne, diminish your blackheads, brightening your skin up. It just CLEANSE! Face wash is just face wash.

Let's get into details of the cleansers.

From left: HL Gokujyun Face Wash, HL Tamagohada AHA+BHA Face Wash, HL Shirojyun Face Wash

Hada Labo Gokujyun (Moisturising) Face Wash

Ingredients: Water, Butylene Glycol, Sodium Myristoyl Glutamate, Sorbitol, Sodium Methyl Cocoyl Taurate, Sodium Lauroyl Glutamate, Cocomide DEA, Myristic Acid, Lauric Acid, Glyceryl Stearate / PEG-100 Stearate, Sodium Chloride, PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil, Polyglyceryl-2 Isostearate, Polyquaternium-7, Methyparaben, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hyaluronate, Sodium Acetylated Hyaluronate

Well, it sulfates-free. They are using mild surfactants and contain two types of hyaluronic acid (HA). Based on ingredients it looks mild. It has pH 5 closely to our skin pH. Claims to be hydrating and refresh.

My verdict: This is quite hydrating. But still leave my skin feeling tight and dry. The foam is not dense when lathering with foaming net. I prefer lots of foam to avoid strong pressure. Putting moisturiser after cleanse with this face wash is a must. Don't have any scent.

Hada Labo Shirojyun (Whitening) Face Wash
Ingredients: Water, Butylene Glycol, Sodium Myristoyl Glutamate, Sorbitol, Sodium Methyl Cocoyl Taurate, Sodium Lauroyl Glutamate, Cocomide DEA, Lauric Acid, Myristic Acid, Glyceryl Stearate / PEG-100 Stearate, Sodium Chloride, PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil, Citrus Paradisi (Grapefruit) Peel Oil, Citrus Aurentium Dulcis (Orange) Peel Oil, Arbutin, Glycerin / Arbutin / Angelica Polymorpha Sinensis Root Extract / Morus Alba Bark Extract / Syringa Oblata Bark / Leaf Powder / Paeonia Albiflora Root Extract / Perilla Frutescens Extract / Bletilla Striata Root Extract / Ampelopsis Japonica Extract / Poria Cocos Extract / Atractyloides Macrocephala Root Extract, Sodium Acetylated Hyaluronate

The ingredients are still the same as Gokujyun but with additional of arbutin, citrus oils and plant extracts. They claimed this face wash can brightening our complexion and hydrating. I found that this face wash has pH 4. I don't really expect the pH was that low, but with all the citrus and plant extract, it might be reasonable.

My verdict: This is more hydrating than Gokujyun face wash. The foam is not dense. It has mild citrus scent, people who don't have sensitive nose will not notice the smell. It does not brightening up my skin but who need that. The downside, this can be too mild so, it is not cleanse well for oilier skin. The best out of the three. Near to be my holy grail, I repurchasing it many times.

Hada Labo Tamagohada AHA+BHA Face Wash
Ingredients: Water, Butylene Glycol, Potassium Myristoyl Glutamate, PEG-450, Lauramidopropyl Betaine, Stearic Acid, Lauramide DEA, Glycolic Acid, Lauric Acid, Cocamidopropyl Hydroxysultaine, Glycol Distearate, Potassium Hydroxide, Methylparaben, Saliylic Acid, Sodium PCA / Betaine / Sorbitol / Glycine / Alanine / Proline / Serine / Threonine / Arginine / Lysine / Glutamic Acid / Methylparaben / Propylparaben / Water

This is also known as gentle exfoliating wash. Did they put word 'exfoliating' just because this cleanser has exfoliating properties? Of course glycolic acid and salicylic acid are not working because it will wash away. They claimed this face wash will deep cleanse into pores, diminish blackheads and dullness. It known to have pH 6.

My verdict: Nowadays, I don't do scrubbing or peeling gels, so I just depend on this so called exfoliating face wash. When I was first time using this, I used every night until my face getting really dry and tight, so, I change to 2-3 times a week. It works for deep cleansing in a milder way. I can't think of any exfoliating product to have except this one. I admit there alots of face wash that can do deep cleansing better, especially with clay ingredient. Since I can't really use clay, this face wash is the best option.

People who are really into skincare understand that we should use low pH cleanser. But I am so lazy and cheapskate to spend money on pH strip. Therefore, I just depend on r/Ab community to check my cleanser's pH even though the accuracy is questionable. For me, the ideal cleanser's pH is from 4-7. Is pH matter or not, it depends on your preference. In my point of view, the important part is the comfortability during and after washing follow by applying moisturiser afterwards. There are high pH cleanser that make our skin feeling comfortable and low pH cleanser that makes our skin feeling tight. Skincare is supposed to be comfortable and relaxing.

RESULT: HL Shirojyun Face Wash > HL Tamoagohada AHA+BHA Face Wash > HL Gokujyun Face Wash

Okay, that's all. See again for the next post. Bye, wassalam.